I get a lot of emails and texts that look something like this: My so-and-so is coming to town, and they're not particularly adventurous eaters, but I want to impress them and not spend a lot of money. Where should I go?
It's been increasingly difficult to come up with answers for this one, particularly in Manhattan. But if you're not borough-bound, the answer is easy: Little D Eatery.
But EF, you say, Manhattan is chock-full of great restaurants! Do we really HAVE to cross a body of water to eat cheaply and well?
Well, no. But if you don't like to wait in line, don't have the where-with-all to make reservations, enjoy unshouted conversations and don't like dealing with a lot of 'tude, Brooklyn's a better bet, and Little D has yet to disappoint.
With a red-brick, tea light-lit interior and a garden in the summer, it's intimate without being fussy, and feels right for both special occasions and everyday splurging (which has more to do with the quality of the food, rather than the price point). Bring your mom, your hopeful third date, or the friends you like best.
Formerly called Little Dishes, this cozy spot does serve up their grub in the ever-popular small-plate format, to favorable effect: You will want EVERYTHING.
Don't bring sickies (no sharing = no fun), and make your choices with a well-made cocktail in hand; my mister and I fell for the Manhattan Sec (Bourbon, Lillet and orange twist).
There's a short, well-curated wine list (all available by the glass) and more than a dozen beers by the bottle to keep the suds nerds happy--the staff has a talent for pairing, so don't be shy about asking.
The hardest thing to do here is not get attached--considering how many times I've been here, I should've tried far more dishes, but I just get stuck on my favorites 'cause they're so effing good.
Primary example: The Hen of the Woods Salad with Arugula, Radiccio, and Upland's Pleasant Ridge Cheese.
I order it every time, and it would take an act of [insert deity] to get me to do otherwise. The kitchen has these wrinkly, webby mushrooms down pat--crispy on
the outside and tender in the center, they marry well with the nutty,
salty cheese, and bitterness of the greens keeps the whole in savory
check. ALL salads should be this good.
I'm a sucker for Foie Gras Terrine, and theirs rotates on and off
the menu--so if you see it, grab it, or any pate/terrine derivatives.
Slathered on toasted brioche with black cherry compote, it's the all
the luxe without the pinch.
Mr. Man got the small plate special--Cider-Braised Pork Cheek with Red Cabbage and Mustard Sauce. (We have a hard time passing up dishes with the word "cheek" in it.)
It had a nice sweet-sour-salty thing going on, but for me, it got a
little overshadowed by the terrine.
For the main event, I'll have to admit that Mr. Man's choice beat the pants off of mine--he got the Coca Cola Braised Baby Back Ribs:
These were ridiculous...the bones pulled right out:
I got the fish special of the day, Pan-Roasted Cobia on Strozzapreti with Dill, Pine Nuts, Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan Cream:
Our lovely waiter described the cobia as "meaty", and it was no
joke--'twas hands-down the butchest white-meat fish I've ever eaten,
rich and briny, with a texture like tuna. It was almost enough to make
me stop coveting the cola ribs.
(Fish does what it can. But it's just...not...pork.)
But chocolate is chocolate. Much to my chagrin, I've only ever had one dessert at Little D's: The Boca Negra.
I don't speak any Spanish, so I have to assume that "Boca Negra" either translates to "Big Bourbon Brownie Wedge with Orange Zest and Unsweetened Whipped Cream", or "Dessert That Commands Unconditional Fidelity".
Reading an all-A report card is tedious as all hell, so I'll speed this us up: Little D's isn't just a dinner ringer, but a Brunch Betty, too.
Check out the Biscuits with Sage Sausage Gravy:
And the Pulled Pork with Grits and Eggs:
(I don't have piccies, but another big favorite of mine is Eggs with those Hen of the Woods Mushrooms and Parmesan alongside.)
The only drawback is, you're pretty much down for the count for the rest of your Sunday. 'Tis what [insert Sunday deity] intended.
On top of all this, the staff here is downright peachy, and the kitchen participates in the Farm to Chef program, to ensure the least number of steps between you and the folks who scooped up your eggs. (And the only way you'd know that is to visit their site--there's no absolutely no sustainability-shilling in the restaurant. GORGEOUS.)
Had enough? Get going!
---------------------------------------
Little D Eatery
434 7th Avenue
Between 14th & 15th Streets
Park Slope
Brooklyn, NY 11215
Ph: 718.369.3144
-take the F train to 7th Avenue stop (click here for map!)
Note: This place isn't out-and-out cheap, but the value is incredible, so there's no sharp stabbing pain when the check comes.
Still want to try: French Breakfast Radishes with Oregano Butter, Potato Chip Crusted Salt Cod Fritters, TallGrass Flank Steak with Over-Easy Egg, Duck Leg Confit, Caramel Bread Pudding
Boca Negra: "Black Mouth." Looks damn chocolatacious. Nice facelift to the banner :P
Posted by: From Behind | May 19, 2008 at 04:19 PM
I agree...with everything. Oh and I had both the french radishes and the cod fritters. Yummy!!! The cod fritters were like fancy fish sticks on steroids. The tartar sauce was particularly tasty (you know I have a fondness for mayonnaise-based concoctions!)
Posted by: Pia | May 24, 2008 at 02:23 PM
i just walked by this place last night and now i really MUST try it! everything looks tasty and i'm a sucker for a good brunch! i can't wait!!!
Posted by: Kristin | June 17, 2008 at 02:43 AM